Fashion industry case and Uyghurs, China

For justice beyond
borders

Why was a legal action brought against Inditex, Uniqlo, SMCP and Skechers?

Sherpa recalls that any person accused or prosecuted by a national or international jurisdiction is presumed innocent until found guilty by a final court decision. In this respect, an appealable decision does not constitute a final decision.

20% of the world’s cotton production originates from the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region in China. The Uyghurs and other ethnic and religious minorities of this region have been the target of the Chinese government’s repressive policies, which, under the guise of poverty alleviation and the fight against terrorism, aim to impose a globalized social control.

In addition to the mass internment of Uyghurs for ideological ‘re-education’ purposes, the government created a vast system of forced labour. 1 in 5 cotton garments in the global apparel market are at risk of being tainted with Uyghur forced labour.

By allegedly selling products which were made using Uyghur forced labour at any level of the value chain, numerous multinationals could be profiting from crimes committed by the Chinese government against this minority. The NGOs Sherpa, Collectif éthique sur l’étiquette, the European Uyghur Institute and a Uyghur plaintiff filed a criminal complaint against several garment companies for concealment of forced labour and concealment of crimes against humanity.

Timeline

Key dates

  • April 9, 2021

    Complaint filed

    Sherpa, Collectif éthique sur l’étiquette, the European Uyghur Institute and a Uyghur plaintiff filed a complaint against Inditex, Uniqlo, SMCP and Skechers as well as against other unknown persons for concealment of the crime of aggravated bondage, concealment of human trafficking in an organized gang, concealment of genocide and concealment of crimes against humanity.

    Learn more
  • July 1, 2021

    Judicial investigation launched

    The Public Prosecutor opened a preliminary investigation into the crime of concealment of crimes against humanity, entrusted to the Central Office for Combating Crimes against Humanity and Hate Crimes.

    Learn more
  • April 12, 2023

    Complaint dismissed

    The public Prosecutor dismissed the complaint on the ground that the anti-terrorism prosecution office did not have jurisdiction.

  • May 16, 2023

    Complaint filed

    Sherpa, Collectif éthique sur l’étiquette, the European Uyghur Institute and a Uyghur plaintiff filed a complaint with a civil party petition before the Paris Tribunal requesting the opening of a judicial investigation.

    Learn more

Impact

Why initiate legal action?

Sherpa

The law is a tool of power in a globalised world. It underpins power relations and encourages impunity for the most powerful. Because of their transnational nature, or the political and economic stakes involved, many violations escape justice. Bringing cases before the courts means putting the debate back on a legal footing, giving a voice to the people affected and thus restoring the legal tool to social movements.

Sherpa

Thanks to the work of NGOs and journalists, the consequences of globalisation are increasingly being documented and denounced. Our legal actions make it possible to initiate an contentious proceedings, establish the facts and apply the rules of law to these situations. They also aim to provide practical solutions by putting a stop to violations, holding the players concerned responsible and/or enabling victims to obtain compensation.

Sherpa

In support of our advocacy and in parallel with our legal laboratory and capacity-sharing activities, our legal actions are designed to contribute to wider and lasting change. They fuel public debate to highlight the limits of the legal framework and the obstacles facing the victims of globalised capitalism. They set precedents that shape a more protective legal framework.

Discover our Case Spotlight

Any questions?

Contact us